Poland

Another day, another form of transport. Today we're on a minibus en route to Auschwitz. It's an hour and half trip up there which will feel like nothing compared to yesterday.

To be honest it was a great trip and we enjoyed the journey. Once we'd finally found the correct carriage we were comfortable and found good places to store our bags. That's such an important part of the journey when you're doing this. Have you got a good space for your bags near your seat? So you can keep an eye out on them and not let them get stolen. 

Also, as soon as we set off, a staff member was straight up to us with a bottle of water each. She didn't even ask to check our tickets! The views from outside the window were amazing - Czechia is a beautiful country and I'd like to go back and see more of it. A random man came and plonked himself next to Emma even though there were plenty of seats left. Of course I text her, "who's your new pal?" She got up and found herself a free double seat infront of us. That's the thing with public transport - you have to travel with members of the public. And most to be fair are quite weird. On the tram in Prague, Emma and I spotted this really beautiful woman with short bleach blonde hair and glamorous clothes. She looked like lady Gaga a bit, but she reminded us of Madonna in Evita. So of course we started singing with moderate volume, "Don't cry for me Argentina" on the tram. Like I said, most people who travel on public transport are weird, I am not excluding myself or Emma from this statement.  That song is a total ear worm as I've been singing all the time since. 

The train into Ostrava was running slightly behind schedule. We originally had a 30 mins transfer window to then catch our bus to Krakow but it had now dwindled to ten and there was mild anxiety in the air that we'd miss it. I was not on full panic mode, but I did instruct the troop to get bagged up 5 mins before we pulled into the station so we could be straight off and out.

It wasn't clear of course where we needed to wait and others at the bus stop outside were confused, but sure enough after 5 mins a double decker bus came along with a Krakow sign in the window. Nothing is overly clear and straightforward when you're travelling like this, but you'll figure it out in the end! We had to put our own bags under the coach today and we were worried it wouldn't leave enough room for others but we dumped them and climbed aboard. We decided to go upstairs and noticed a vending machine as we got to the top floor. We found some seats and were bouncing up and down when we noticed the seat back screens and WiFi symbol. We were sort of dreading a 3 hour coach ride but we all agreed this was the best coach we'd ever been on. Emma went to check out the vending machine and I can't tell you how excited we were when we discovered it vended beer!!!! It was almost the same level of merriment we felt after finding a fridge in our wardrobe in Prague. €2 those cans cost. What a bargain! We were in a right happy mood. Hardly anyone joined us upstairs so we had a bit of a party atmosphere. I completed a game of sudoku on my seat back console and Laurie treated himself to a game of chess. I noticed the machine also sold beef jerky - one of Laurie's favs so I went to go treat him.

The machine wasn't overly straightforward and even when buying beer we had to try a few times to get it sorted. It took my payment but no jerky arrived. I checked the little flap where the beers came out of nothing. I was gutted. €1.65 those bastards have had out of me. For nothing. I went back to the seats head down and told Laurie there was no jerky. 

I moaned about this mild inconvenience to Emma at least 5 times before I decided to go and check out the coach toilet. It was down the stairs so I passed the vending machine and snarled at it before steadying myself onto the ground floor. I tried the cubicle - it was locked. I tried the handle a few times incase I hadn't opened it properly. Someone was probably in it. I sat on the stairs a good five minutes wondering if someone was really in it or if it just wasn't working. Then I realised if someone was in it, it might not be the best time to visit it, if what they were doing in there was taking some time. 

I heard a flush. Oh god. It's going to smell isn't it? A guy walked out and I held my breath and walked in. It didn't smell good, but it didn't smell of shit either so god knows what he was doing in there.

I made my visit as quick as I could and went back to join my pals on the upper deck. As I passed the vending machine I noticed an additional receptacle underneath the payment screen. I peered closer at it and saw a little packet inside. I reached in and pulled out a small jerky bar! Result!!!

I was buzzing my tits off as I walked back to the seat with the jerky in my hand!!! I can delete the email I'd penned to RegioJet about their faulty machine. I jest I hadn't really written it but I was thinking about it. I am, after all, called Karen.

Of course when you're on a coach it's never direct so we had a couple of airports to swing by to pick up other passengers and there were roadworks and we reached rush hour. We arrived in Krakow around half an hour late. We didn't mind too much. We'd had such a laugh on the journey - and that for me is the pleasure of interrailing. The trips between each of the cities is as fun as visiting the cities themselves.

We could have got a tram up to the apartment but it was only one stop so we decided to walk it. 17 mins isn't usually that long a walk, but it is when you've got about 15kilos on your back! The apartment host had sent us a video showing us how to get in and what code to enter on the door! It was a bit like completing an escape room

Challenge! We managed it with ease and were soon in our new digs!

The first thing that hit us was the air conditioning! OMG yessss! Our other rooms hadn't been as cool. The aesthetics of the place were really grand too! Really nice furniture and accessories. I had offered to Emma that me and Laurie would have the sofa bed in this place and she could take the double as she's been in singles so far, but it was a futon on a mezzanine floor up a little staircase and she preferred that. She's like a little rodent is our Emma, who enjoys cosying up in a little nest. This was perfect for her! 

We didn't want to spend too long hanging around so quickly showered and put some glad rags on. We hadn't really eaten a nice meal out yet - it was all snacks from the shop and all you can eat breakfasts so we decided we'd head to the main square and have a slap up tea! The old town is lush - and the main square was amazing. Much bigger than the ones we've seen in Brussels, Ghent and Prague. We mooched around glancing at all the menus to see which place would suit all of us. Laurence decided he was going to have seafood pasta when he saw it on the menu at the first place so I hoped there would be another along the way that would do it too! We found a place that had food we all fancied and thankfully shrimp with tagliatelle! It was a bit cheaper than some of the others too. They didn't have room out in the main square so fit us in down a small courtyard but we didn't mind that. Less people gawping at us eating as they walked by. 

Emma had a traditional breaded pork and I had stuffed chicken but it did come with mini dumplings. We've felt like we've had some proper polish food now so normal service can resume later and we can bob into a minimart for a packet of lays and a stale bread roll. 

Laurie has been on about getting some knock off footie kits whilst he's out here - he filled his boots in Turkey earlier in the year and has been on about getting a new haul. He spotted a Polish kit in a souvenir shop and said he wanted that. He picked up the shorts too. I was in a bit of "fuck it! You're on holiday" mode until I got to the till and found out the whole kit cost £80!!!!! I didn't want to say no at this point so got out some euros and paid through gritted teeth! Could have had a brand new city kit for that... oh well! He's happy! That €1.65 for the Jerky that was missing presumed lost seems like nothing now!

I told Laurence that's all he'd been getting this trip after fleecing me and we headed over to the market to see what was on sale. (For me obviously, not him! He's spent up!)

It felt like a little Christmas market - but in the heat! All the usual traditional little huts selling gifts, food, homemade stuff with cute lights and music. I spotted a stall with some little handmade wooden items like key rings, magnets etc. They had some sun catchers that said "Krakow" on with little pieces of amber inside and I thought that would do as a Christmas tree Dec! Laurie and I have started a little tradition that we pick up decs for our tree wherever we go! It's so lovely at the beginning of December when you pop all of them on the tree and remember all the trips you've been on. I already had a Brussels and prague dec so didn't need to get one from there.

We didn't spend too much longer out as we had an early start today! Originally they told us 10:30 but we got a text yesterday moving the meet up time to 8:00!!! 

We're almost at Auschwitz now so I'll fill you in on the rest of our Polish stay later on.

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So it's now Sunday and we're on the train to Vienna. We had an early start today! The train left at 06:27. I said to Emma this morning as we were stirring around 5am, usually when I have to be up early for a flight I can't sleep very well the night before. Like when we went to Japan, we had an early wake up and I was paranoid I was going to sleep in and miss the flight. And instead of getting to sleep early I tossed and turned all night and barely got any shut eye. Neither of us had any of that get up early anxiety yesterday and managed an early night with a good night's sleep.

So anyway... Auschwitz. It's somewhere I've wanted to go since forever really! It was one of the main reasons Emma and I put the trip together. She said she wanted to go. I said I'd go by train, we said we'd do an adventure and include it in the trip. Laurie knows a lot about WW2. Well, every war to be honest. We went to Sachsenhausen near Berlin last year and found it interesting/moving etc.  

I've watched lots of films that are based in Auschwitz and have done a bit of research into some of the stories that came out. Especially those which switch the narrative and celebrate the good humans and the happy endings. I know people walk away absolutely emotionally drained from a visit there, but I was prepared to endure this as I feel like everyone really needs to come once in their life. The suggested age to come is at least 14, but Laurie is more mature than me in every way so I know he'd be cool.

When Emma suggested booking a coach tour way back when, I shot her down saying there was no point when it was free entrance and we'd be able to get up there on public transport - like we did in Berlin! But I did a bit of research a couple of weeks ago and found out the free slots aren't always available so thought we'd be better off going with Emma's idea so we were guaranteed entry. To be fair it was only £20 or so each for the coach, entry, tour etc which was reasonable enough. Initially we were going to be picked up at 10:30 by our hotel but we got a text en route to Krakow Friday telling us that pick up was now 8am and by the station.

Always be prepared for a change of plan on these trips. 

An American family of 5 didn't take heed of this advice yesterday as the Dad didn't know where his phone was and missed the transfer! We left without them. He didn't get the text about the new pick up time. They caught up with us outside the main entrance after getting a taxi. 

Auschwitz was different to how I imagined I think. Well actually, the mother camp was. It was all brick buildings and I suppose in my head I couldn't picture what it was like there. Our guide Chris told us the stories but I found it really hard to relate to my surroundings. The parts that moved me most was seeing a large photo on the wall of three siblings holding hands maybe between 3-7 years old, just casually walking up to the gas chamber. Unaware of their impending fate. Laurie was stood near me at the time and of course as a mother I put myself into their shoes. I imagined what it would have been like if we had been there. Laurie and I were discussing whether they would have deemed him strong enough to work and kept him, or saw him as not suitable and straight to the chamber. Laurie didn't realise the gassing took so long. It would take 15-20 mins to actually die - almost like a drowning or suffocating. Not quick or painless at all. He said he'd rather be shot than be gassed or put to hard labour. Or starvation infact.

We live such a privileged life when you think about what others have endured before us and what others in different parts of the world still endure to this day. We're just fortunate we were born where we were, when we were. I think a lot of people need to remember that. 

Lots was mentioned about propaganda and how the Nazis were very clever at manipulating Germans into believing Jews, Roma, disabled people or the LGBTQ+ community were the problem. Very similar to today's world for those who swallow up all that's pumped up by the mail, sun and the likes. If you use the term "Boat people" I am looking at you.

Anyway lecture over. The other part that upset me was seeing all the shoes and especially the kids shoes. Actually some of the women's too. I've seen images of the standard black leather boots piling up before but seeing women's shoes that hinted at the owners personality was quite moving too. I saw a sandal with a nautical theme - a blue anchor on. Those murdered at Auschwitz weren't just a number. They were people with personalities, different fashion choices, individuals.

I think the reason I was more emotional at Sachsenhausen was because you could see how people lived a little more. Plus we explored it at our own pace, rather than following a guide. Yesterday the whole place was like a little production line of people constantly moving. 

We went over to the other camp on our mini bus. This was where the famous image of the track leading up to the entrance is. It was more how I imagined the camp to be, with little huts and the like. We only went 

into one. It was such a hot day it was hard to focus. Emma had already tapped out of this bit and went to get a drink in the shade by the coach stop. She made friends with a Welsh woman who had a hairy chest. 

When the tour was done we headed back to Krakow.  The early start meant we were back in town earlier so that was good! We headed to the Jewish quarter by tram and found somewhere to eat! 

Laurie went for the prawn pasta again! Emma had beef and I had Pierogi - polish dumplings! The restaurant actually had a sky bar on the roof so we went up there for a post meal cocktail. 

We had a bit more of a mooch around that side of town, got an ice cream and headed back to the apartment ready to pack up our bits for the next port of call. I had about 110 zlotis left to spend - just over £20 so I thought I'd pop to the minimart to get some goodies for the train to Vienna. I left Laurie and Emma back at the room and walked through the streets on my own. Like a local. Infact, a few people spoke to me in Polish along the way! 

I couldn't spend that £20!! I got loads of stuff too! Sweets, meats, cheeses, beers, crisps, pop. I still had a couple of quid left over. Imagine my excitement when I got to Krakow Glowny (main station) to find the coffee shop open this morning! I spent my last 20 zlotis on a latte and gave the staff my change!

We ubered it to the station this morning. I worked out last night it would cost about £3 so I decided at 5:45, that would be a better option than walking/tramming and the likes. What a good idea! 

I am glad we got there early enough to figure out the platform arrangement. We saw we were on 3, but when we followed the sign for 3, we couldn't work out which side it was. There were lots of numbers on signs we weren't clear which was which. We decided to back to the concourse and double check we were right. Back down the stairs we went. Platform 3 pointed to where we came from and we asked a person in uniform if we were right - she confirmed we were. As we went back up the escalator our train was pulling in. Thankfully it only had about 3/4 carriages so it didn't take us long to find our seats!

So now we're about 2 hours into a 5 hour train journey. We've got one of those private booths - except there are 3 other people in here and it's kinda awkward sitting opposite someone you don't know. They're all quiet and we're rustling sweet wrappers and laughing about silly random stuff as usual. 

See you in Vienna.